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Maralinga trip 2-15 September 2017
This trip was organized by Michael Thomson, however just a few weeks before we were due to depart, his wife had an accident and the Thomsons were unable to participate. I thank Michael for all the organisation he completed, and for giving me such a workable package.
photo credits: Julia, Judy, Paul and David
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Day 1 – Saturday 2 Sep 17: Home to Lake Benanee
Well, the Trip Leaders turned up at the appointed departure point 20 minutes early, expecting some of the more enthusiastic members to be waiting for us – but we were on our own! 10 Minutes to go, and we were still on our own. Did we go to the wrong place? Relief, 3 minutes to and everybody who was supposed to be there arrived. All good for the start.
A quick radio-check and a nomination for Tail-End-Charlie and we were on our way. The Reis, as was their want, dashed of ahead of the convoy and make sure the road was clear. (John and Julie took on this role for the whole trip!)
After quick stops at Gundagai and Wagga Wagga, we steamed on ’till we heard a radio plea from the Koppes asking if they could join the convoy as we were passing through the outskirts of Narranderra. We then went on for a quick lunch at Darlington Point. After that, it was on to Balranald and Lake Benanee where John and Julie had staked claim to the grassiest spot.
We had completed our first 750km, and settled into a happy hour and a catch-up. A beautiful site, however, as we settled down for the night, rain threatened but did not amount to much. By morning, the rain had gone (although the clouds remained present) only to be replaced by a howling gale, which was to be our companion for the next four days.
Day 2 – Sunday 3 Sep 17: Lake Benanee to Melrose
We left the Lake at exactly “half past” (which was our start time on most days), and headed off to Mildura for a coffee stop and then Renmark. Once we were in South Australia, we set our GPS’s for Burra (where John and Julie had already checked out the antique shops and were able to advise which was the best coffee shop). The interesting thing about this morning’s drive was that our fuel consumption went through the roof due to the gale. As a result, several of us (including the trip leader), made it to Burra with only the smell of fuel in our tanks.
After Burra, it was only a short drive to the caravan park in Melrose. After we arrived, a greater than expected number of rigs turned up at the park and several were turned away. Luckily, Sue had made a group booking! Again, we had done over 600km during the day! Once we were all settled in, we made our way to the pub for a group meal.
Day 3 – Monday 4 Sep 17: Melrose to Streaky Bay
We had a very challenging night, with winds blustering along the foot of Mt Remarkable where the caravan park was located. The biggest challenges were getting the canvas dry after rain through the night and keeping the tent and the fly from blowing away in the strong wind while trying to pull it down. Team work played a big part in getting everything packed up and safely secured. Some of the group had breakfast in the camp kitchen, others wandered off to see if the café was open, and some braved the elements and successfully boiled the kettle for a cuppa, despite the wind. Day 3 was basically a transport stage from Melrose to Streaky Bay, through Port Augusta (for supplies) of about 450km.
Breakfast done and vehicles packed, we headed off for Port Augusta. We stopped in Port Augusta to get some supplies and have lunch. After stocking up and meeting up with Peter Simpson in PA (over lunch), we headed for Streaky Bay with a comfort and refuelling stop in Kimba. We also met up with the Jedryks in Kimba (near the painted silos). At Minnipa, the Koppes and the Rigters headed off to Pildappa Rock to see if it was a suitable location to “Free Camp” on the way back. All arrived safely at the Foreshore Caravan Park in Streaky Bay, where we found that our sites boasted water views and a nearby fish and chips shop. With the wild weather continuing, some opted for cabins for the duration of our stay.
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Day 4 – Tuesday 5 Sep 17: Streaky Bay (Rest Day)
Although the wind was again blustery and rain threatened, most of us went for a drive to explore the local attractions. First up was the “Westall Way Loop”. The wind was howling so the surf on the west-facing beaches and points was huge. We arrived at the Granites on the stunning coast line with a granite shore which offered swimming in a quiet pool; the wind chill factor provided the decision for the group – no one swam. We proceeded to Tractor Beach complete with a rusty tractor. Note: in case you think this was a soft roader trip, the tractor got bogged and had been abandoned. This drive was followed by a trip to the Point Labatt Conservation Park, where despite the wind, we all enjoyed watching the Sea Lions, NZ fur seals and birdlife. The sea lions were lounging about with an occasional roll. After that it was off Murphy’s Haystacks, where we had lunch and and a close look at these interesting “inselbergs” which were mistaken for haystacks years ago. For those who have not seen these sights near Streaky Bay, this drive is a highly recommended diversion.
Later on during the afternoon, many took advantage of the abating weather to take on the Cape Bauer Loop Road to see Whispering Rocks and the Blowholes while the seas were still high. Another interesting drive.
Day 5 – Wednesday 6 Sep 17: Streaky Bay to Coorabie Farm
Overnight the skies had begun to clear and the strong wind had dropped to a gentle breeze, a welcome change from the weather of the previous days.
Agreed departure time was 9 am with only a fuel stop scheduled in Ceduna. But before leaving Streaky Bay, some of us met at a local bakery for coffee and cake, while others used the time to stock up on groceries etc. After fueling up in Ceduna we all stopped at the Oyster Bar just the other side of town for fresh oysters, deep fried oysters, fish and chips and fresh fish – all well worth stopping for.
A few kilometres out of Penong, about 70ks west of Ceduna, we pulled in to Penong, the windmill capital of Australia. There are some amazing windmills so it is a worthwhile stop.
Coorabie Farm Stay is about 150 kilometers west of Ceduna and 8 kilometers south off the Eyre Highway. Camping facilities are excellent – powered sites and grassed tent sites, great showers, laundry and a rudimentary camp kitchen under cover with plenty of chairs and a splendid fire dish in the middle, with firewood supplied. After lunch, some drove to Fowlers Bay to see the whales, some with calves, passing up the coast on their annual migration. The weather remained mild throughout the evening which was spent drinking and chatting around the splendid fire.
Unfortunately, Suzanne was unwell so the Jedryks decided they would begin their return trip, staying in towns with hospitals, just in case. They enjoyed their trip home staying at Port Lincoln where they did a boat trip to see the Tuna and Kingfish farming, then to Coffin Bay national park – worthwhile with great scenery and wildlife. They plan to get to Maralinga another time!
Day 6 – Thursday 7 Sep 17: Head of Bight
We left Coorabie at 9am (ie half past 0830) and proceeded via the Eyre Highway to the Head of Bight. The weather was fine and sunny and the water inshore near the cliffs was a beautiful light turquoise. Up to a dozen wales and their calves were spotted frolicking along the stretch of water both sides of the viewing platforms. Many, many photos were taken and eventually people wended their way back to the entrance kiosk for late morning tea. The scones at the kiosk are highly recommended.
We then proceeded to the Nullarbor Roadhouse, taking photos of the iconic signs before backtracking along the highway to Coorabie.
Day 7 – Friday 8 Sep 17: Coorabie Farm – Maralinga
It is only a four-and-a-half-hour drive (including stops) from Coorabie to Maralinga so we hit the road at about 0930. Our first stop was to top up fuel at Nundroo (at about $1.33/l it was much cheaper than at the Nullarbor Roadhouse where diesel and ULP were both $1.99/l). From there, it was 27km down the Eyre Highway to the turnoff to the Iluka mine. This was an excellent road designed for road trains which carry mineral sands to Thevenard Port at Ceduna for export. However, on the days we used this road, it was very quiet as the mine had closed down ’till structural repairs on the wharves are completed. After 78km down this road, we took the turnoff onto the dirt, aired down and had a leisurely morning tea.
It was then through the causeway across Lake Ifould and onto Ooldea Railway Siding. We stopped here for a lengthy lunch under a Telstra tower, in the hope that one of the 58 trains per week which cross the Nullarbor would pass while we were there – none did. We did, however, have plenty of time to explore the railway siding and visit the memorial to Mrs Daisy Bates who devoted much of her life to the Aboriginals at Ooldea and elsewhere in remote locations.
After leaving the Trans Australia Railway, it was another 27km on the dirt till we hit the sealed road which runs from Watson Railway Siding to Maralinga. Just down this road we stopped to examine a blowhole just beside the road. (This is one of many hundreds found on the Nullarbor Plain.) We then went on to the Maralinga gate where we arrived an hour early. At the appointed time (4.30pm) our guide, Robin Matthews, arrived and led the convoy to our campsite in the “township”. The weather by now was glorious and we quickly set up camp, had hot showers and lit the fire for happy hour, where Robin gave us a briefing on the activities for the next two days.
For people contemplating going to Maralinga, it is strongly recommended that visit the Maralinga Tours Web Site, and that they use the “Mud Map” provided at https://www.maralingatours.com.au
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Day 8: – Saturday 9 Sep 17: Maralinga (Day 1)
It was a great night, camping under the stars in the red desert, but we had to wake up and get ready for our first big day touring Maralinga and visiting the sites of the British atomic bomb tests of the 1950’s and 1960’s. This is what we had come on the trip for!
The day was the warmest of our two week trip, so the shorts and hats were unpacked, although it was still windy. We were met at 9.30am by Robin, our tour guide for the next two days, and his 24 seat bus. The cars remained in camp for the day. Robin is only one of two people who now live permanently at the Maralinga village site and is employed by the Maralinga-Tjarutja people as a tour guide. We were all very impressed with his depth of knowledge of the land, the local flora and fauna, the history of Maralinga and the atomic testing and aftermath, his enthusiasm and interest, and his storytelling abilities. Approximately 700 tourists per year now visit Maralinga and all are placed into the Robin’s capable hands as unrestricted access to Maralinga and the atomic testing sites is not permitted. Robin explained that, in the 1950’s and 1960’s, 8,000 personnel lived in Maralinga Village. It was abandoned by the British after they became a signatory to the nuclear non-proliferation treaty of 1968 and ceased testing atomic weapons. It was also the site of a Thiess Brothers village for the duration of the cleanup of radioactive contamination by the Australian Government between 1994 and 2000. The camping facilities we were able to use at the site of Maralinga village, such as showers and toilets in shipping containers, were courtesy of Thiess Brothers.
Len Beadell selected the permanent site at Maralinga, following which 241kms of bitumen road were built by the British. It was surreal driving in a bus on well preserved bitumen roads in the middle of the S.A. desert. Much of the village infrastructure, built in 16 months, is still in place and is still in good condition.
Our first stop on the bus tour was the Lough McKew Dam, used for water storage for the village. Uniquely, it is filled by the run-off from the airstrip parking bay and then pumped to a water tank atop a tower which is still in good condition and still used today. This stop was followed by a visit to the airstrip and airport building. The landing strip is 2.4km long and is still regularly used by the Defence forces, and as an emergency landing strip. As we headed out to Roadside Village, we stopped to inspect the carcass and skeleton of a dead camel. As retired vets, David and Judy were particularly fascinated. Roadside Village, 30kms from Maralinga, was the quarters for the men in the forward area during the atomic bomb tests. After visiting Roadside Village, and on the way to our lunch stop, we visited Tietken’s well, a 26m deep well which was built in 1874 by the explorer William Teitken who explored country around Maralinga for potential pastoral settlement. Robin pointed out two falcon’s eggs in a nest on a ledge near the bottom of the well. On the tour the next day, we were rewarded with a view of the falcon sitting on her eggs.
We ate a packed lunch on the cement slab of an abandoned Thiess workshop adjacent to the Taranaki burial pits, where the radioactive contamination left by the British and all machinery used in the 1980’s cleanup is buried. Judy wanted to stay a little longer than everyone else, getting herself locked in the long-drop toilet; Robin had to come to her rescue with some tools. The atomic test sites we visited are all marked by plinths, erected by the British; and information boards provided for the Maralinga-Tjarutja people.
On the first day of our tour Robin took us to:
- Brumbie site 1967;
- Radiation Boundary – a 98 km boundary of signs in the Pitjantatjara language to make the traditional owners aware of where there was radioactive contamination;
- Taranaki test site where an atomic weapon was exploded in 1957;
- Breakaway Ground Zero where a bomb was detonated from tower and melted the topsoil into a large green glass sheet;
- Marcoo Ground Zero where a bomb was detonated at ground level and a few months later an indigenous family was found camped in the crater.
We were unable to visit all the sites in one day, so Robin kindly offered to take us out in the bus again the next day to complete the tour. We were all happy to do this as we were all in awe of the Maralinga story and were enjoying Robin’s company. After a fantastic day out, we returned to camp at around 4pm in time for the usual drinks and nibbles. Robin joined us later for a cold drink and a chat around the fire.
Day 9 – Sunday 10 Sep 17: Maralinga (Day 2)
After spending much of our first day around the Taranaki testing site, on our second day we visited several of the other major sites, including to a planned site that was never used.
On our way to the testing sites, we stopped again at Tieken’s first well to see whether the falcon had laid any more eggs. To our delight, she was sitting on them. She stared at us nervously, but clearly was not intimidated by our presence and remained where she was. We checked on the well again on our way home and she was still there.
Our next stop was the Breakaway site, where a nuclear weapon was detonated from a tower on 22 October 1956. The explosion vaporised the entire tower and solidified molten glass was scattered around the site. The residual radiation emission is now less than would be found in a school!
Following Breakaway, our next stop was Marcoo, where a ground test was carried out. This formed a crater 60 meters wide and 30 meters deep. Seven months after the explosion, an Aboriginal family was found camping alongside the crater. Charlie and Evie Milpuddie and their children, Roger and Sarah, were taken to the decontamination centre at Roadside Village where they were showered four times for decontamination. They were than taken to Yalata, a nearby town. Although the Milpuddies themselves did not suffer any long-term ill effects, Evie miscarried shortly afterwards and both the children died prematurely of alcoholism. Many of their subsequent generations have suffered from birth defects or other physical or psychological problems.
Tufi and Gona were two sites where the intended tests were not performed. This was because the Treaty on the non-Proliferation of Nuclear Weapons between the US, UK and Soviet Union was signed. They were particularly interesting because some of the construction for the detonations remained and demonstrated the detailed engineering applied to the sites. I found this fascinating given the lack of attention paid to the effects on the local Aboriginal population or the 8,000 British and Commonwealth troops that were involved in the testing. Of these 6,000 have died of cancer, some of them prematurely within 10 years of the testing. Over 120 Aborigines were unaccounted for following the explosions.
We had another very pleasant evening around the campfire, reflecting on another incredible day at Maralinga. Robin was an absolutely terrific guide and made the whole experience very interesting for us all.
Again, for people planning a visit to Maralinga, it is strongly recommended that you visit the the Maralinga Tours Web Site, and that you use the “Mud Map” provided at https://www.maralingatours.com.au. Very interesting and useful information in relation to Maralinga is available in numerous web sites. I found at the Wikipedia Site: “British Nuclear Tests at Maralinga” a worthwhile starting point.
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Day 10 – Monday 11 Sep 17: Maralinga – Pildappa Rock
We packed up and left Maralinga by 0830, as the next tour group which would need Robin’s attention for the remainder of the day had already arrived. It was with a greater understanding of the British (and Australian) nuclear programs, and of the beautiful Maralinga-Tjarutja country that we left Maralinga.
We decided not to visit the quarry near the Watson Railway Siding (where most of the equipment required for Maralinga was delivered by rail), as we had a lot of distance to cover on the day.
The highlight of the trip back to the Eyre Highway was coming across a small herd of feral camels between Ooldea Siding and the Iluka Mine Road. This was the first time many of us had seen a herd of feral camels, although we did see a solitary animal on the Maralinga range on Saturday afternoon when we were on our way back to the village.
Once again, we all stopped at the Oyster Bar in Ceduna for refills of sea food. Ceduna shops also gave us the chance to replenish supplies and enjoy a cappuccino. It was also here that we farwelled the Koppes who would go on to visit relatives in Adelaide.
From here, it was not long before we turned off the Highway at Minnipa for the 17km of dirt road to Pildappa Rock. After setting up our camp, we were able to explore “the rock” and enjoy the views from the top. The following morning, we all enjoyed the sunrise at this beautiful spot.
Day 11 – Tuesday 12 Sep 17: Pildappa Rock – Mt Ive Station
It was only a short drive from Pildappa Rock to Mt Ive Station (about 100km) where we arrived before lunch. After setting up camp, we decided to undertake one of the many 4WD trips available on the property.
The “Billy Can” drive was decided on! However, after many false starts and after asking station staff, we were unable to locate the start point. This did not bode well for a drive in rugged terrain when we could not even leave the homestead environs with any confidence. Eventually, a Billy Can suspended on a pole was discovered and we were on our way. For the rest of the drive, the Billy Cans were more conspicuous and we completed the trip without further mishap. The drive, which took us to many interesting features, was the only chance we had to engage low range during the trip.
Day 12 – Wednesday 13 Sep 17: Mt Ive Station
After a day of wild, windy, wet weather, a shearer’s room was ordered for the Reis’ and some of the other less intrepid members of the group.
This morning we left at about 9.00am to go to Lake Gairdner. On the way, we first called in on the “Organ Pipes” a very geometric formation of volcanic rhyolite rocks with large vertical fractures and great colour. The short hike from the car park was well worth it.
From there it was only a short drive to the lake. Although several of us had been to Lake Gairdner in the past, this was the first time we had seen it with water covering vast expanses. We also observed some tyre tracks which did not appear to end well, bogged probably years ago. A stunning sight for those of us who have never seem a salt lake before. A far cry from March when it is used for car races as part of “Speed Week”. Lake Gairdner is the second largest salt lake in Australia and is only bettered by Lake Eyre. We only stayed here for a short while to take in the views as, by now, the wind was howling and rain was threatening.
After the lake, we headed off to the Embankment, built in 1892 with a stone wall making either a dam or a weir – such is the discussion when you have a civil engineer as trip leader! (It was a dam – Eric). Great day!
Day 13 – Thursday 14 Sep 17: Mt Ive Station – Morgan
We suffered a second very windy night at Mt Ive station, which resulted in some of those in tents decamping to the shearers’ quarters to get a good night’s sleep. Good was also made of the shearers’ kitchen for drinkies and dinner.
Our group decided not to go north to Kingoonya and Woomera, but to take a relaxed route home. Accordingly, we took the dirt road east from Mt Ive station and met the Eyre Highway at Iron Knob. Near ‘Siam’ station, distant camels were spotted.
Iron Knob appeared deserted, except for the Post Mistress who told us that all the workers were ‘bussed’ daily to Whyalla to work in the steel works there. Lunch was had at Wilmington (a good café there) and we then proceeded down the Barrier Highway to Morgan where we stayed overnight in the caravan park on the banks of the Murray.
On several recommendations, we had dinner at the Commercial Hotel. Some tried the ‘cook your own dinner on hot rocks’ approach, with mixed results. There’s an interesting museum in Morgan (focusing on the rail and riverboat history of the district) which we didn’t have time to visit.
Day 14 – Friday 15 Sep 17: Morgan to Balranald (Paika Station)
We departed Morgan on the Murray River at about half past to head towards home. It had been decided the previous evening that we would spend our last night at Paika Station, just north of Balranald, a distance of just over 400kms for the day. The drive through the Riverland was busy but uneventful. We re-fuelled with diesel/petrol and caffeine at Mildura and stopped for lunch at Bottle Bend, a free camp and reserve on a beautiful bend in the Murray River 20kms east of Mildura. David and Judy became concerned about low pressure on one of their trailer tyres. A bottle of spray detergent from Brian’s car found the leak and Brian very competently plugged the leak without even losing much air out of the tyre. The excellent puncture repair held for the remainder of the trip (and is still holding!).
Once at Balranald, we headed north on the Ivanhoe road for 17kms to reach our camp for the night at Paika Station. LRC members had previously visited Paika Station for morning tea on a Mungo NP trip, so our host Dianne Williams was delighted to see us back. Paika Station is a Farm Stay and offers restored workmen’s quarters accommodation or camping. The grand homestead was built on a peninsula in Paika Lake in 1875, Paika having been first settled in 1846. From 1903, Murrumbidgee irrigation development led to the construction of a number of weirs on the Murrumbidgee and Paika Lake dried up and became a sheep paddock. However in 2011 Dianne, together with the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage, the CSIRO and local landowners, worked to have the stranded Paika-Penarie Creek system opened up to the Murrumbidgee once again, and the 445 hectare lake filled for the first time in over 100 years. It is now a beautiful lake and wetland with an abundance of wildlife.
After a chat to Dianne, and an exploration of the historic homestead, gardens, buildings and farm sheds, we set up camp on the edge of the lake. It was nice to hear the water lapping on the beach and the sounds of the birds in the morning. We had a great fire in a large fire pit on the edge of the lake and cooked a communal barbeque for our last night together. We all agreed it was a lovely place to have our final camp of the Maralinga trip.
Day 15 – Saturday 16 Sep 17: Paika Station (Balranald) – Home
Another, and last, start at half past, and we were on our way home. Our only stop for sightseeing was a visit to Yanga Homestead on the shores of Lake Yanga. Yanga Station was acquired by the NSW NPWS 2005 and is now a National Park. We all enjoyed imagining living in the 1880’s facilities.
After this visit, we had one last refueling stop at Narrandera where we said our farewells, before the sprint back to Canberra.
Summary
In the 15 days of the trip, the 15 participants in 9 cars, travelled some 5,300km and visited a host of wonderful places. This was a wonderful trip, which we are sure will again be conducted by the Land Rover Club of the ACT in future years. (I have heard rumors that moves are already afoot to hold another trip during the September 2018 school holidays.)
If anybody wants to see further (100’s and 100’s of additional) photos and hear personal stories of this trip, please contact me or any of the other participants.
Eric Rigter
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