Murrumbidgee & Murray Rivers Meander – 20 – 29 May 2021
Participants:
Tom & Ann de Jongh – Mitsubishi Triton
Mary Bergstrom – Mitsubishi Pajero
Matt Bolton – Landcruiser 200
Andrew Glennie – VW Transporter
The Murrumbidgee River flows for 1,600 kilometres from its headwaters in Kosciuszko National Park to its junction with the Murray River near Balranald in NSW. We began our trip at Uriarra Crossing in north Canberra. This was our first crossing of the Murrumbidgee River.
We would follow the Murrumbidgee River and its catchment experiencing the towns, agriculture and wildlife along its banks and floodplains. The Murrumbidgee River is also important to Aboriginal groups including the Ngunnawal, Wiradjuri and Nari Nari.
The mighty Murray River, one of the world’s longest navigable rivers, stretching 2,700 kilometres from the mountains of the Great Dividing Range in north-eastern Victoria to near Adelaide in South Australia. We would only be travelling along a small section of the Murray. A second trip would be required to do it justice.
Day 1 – Thursday 20 May 2021
The convoy met at Uriarra Crossing for a 10.30am departure. At the start of the gravel in the Brindabellas, we stopped to deflate tyres and change the settings on Mary’s radio. We travelled along Brindabella Road to Piccadilly Circus and beyond. The journey was easy and quiet. We crossed the Brindabella Range and Fiery Range, reaching a height of 1,300 metres. This road can be closed due to snow in the winter months. Tall healthy gums and pine forests lined the road. The road varied from sealed to single lane gravel with blind bends and corrugations. We descended into Tumut along the Bombowlee Creek Road farmland stopping for pizza and a beer at the Tumut River Brewing Co.
We drove on through south Gundagai, crossing the Murrumbidgee again to join the Nangus Road. We followed the river to Oura Beach Reserve for our overnight camp. The reserve was quiet and clean with large grassed areas for camping. The peace and quiet was interrupted occasionally by aeroplanes overhead as the Wagga Wagga airport is close by. It was cold overnight with a minimum of -2°C.
Day 2 – Friday 21 May 2021
We woke to the sounds of kookaburras and sulphur-crested cockatoos. It was a slow but sunny start to the day. After a short drive to Wagga Wagga, we visited the National Art Glass Gallery viewing the fantasy creatures of Tom Moore and some of the permanent collection. The Museum of the Riverina in the old Council Chambers had a small display of local history – did you know that the first chiko roll was sold at the Wagga show in 1951? (We crossed the river twice – entering and exiting Wagga.)
It was then on to Coolamon where we visited the Coolamon Cheese Company for a tour and cheese tasting. The cheese making process is far more complicated that we had imagined, but the consumption of the samples was very easy. Coolamon has a wonderful wide main street with a park down the centre. A number of antique shops line the street. At the northern end the Up-to-date store is a preserved general store. Unfortunately, its doors were closed.
Our journey continued westerly to Ganmain where we did the Murumbang Interpretive Walk. The walk winds around the Ganmain Forest, railway dams and Boggy Creek. The walk was disappointing with many of the informative plant signs not matching the existing vegetation. The Ganmain outdoor haystack museum is a memorial to the pioneers of the area providing information on the haymaking process.
We continued travelling west into the setting sun to Narrandera, setting up camp at the showgrounds. We took advantage of the Ex-Services Club shuttle bus and dined out at the club.
Day 3 – Saturday 22 May 2021
It was a leisurely start with a visit to the bakery for coffee and treats. We joined the MIA Forest Drive (#1) in the Murrumbidgee Valley National Park. Instructions and maps for the area are vague, so it took some guesswork to find the drive but after a false start and viewing the orchards in the area which rely on the diverted river water to feed their crops, we began the drive. The road had been freshly graded making the journey smooth. The water level in the river was not high but it was peaceful with much birdlife.
Upon exiting the forest drive we drove into Yanco and Leeton enjoying a picnic and walk at the Fivebough Wetlands. These wetlands are RAMSAR sites and are of international importance. We viewed pelicans, magpie geese and moorhens but disappointingly no brolgas.
We return to the south joining the MIA River Drive (#2) to our overnight campsite at Gogeldrie Weir. Unfortunately, the convoy experienced one flat tyre along the drive, but enabled some of the party to watch cotton harvesting in progress. We had a brief stop at the Coononcoocabil Lagoon to photograph the reflections.
The weir is a large irrigation structure on the Murrumbidgee River diverting water for the Coleambally irrigation area and MIA. The area is popular with campers, fishing, and water sport.
Day 4 – Sunday 23 May 2021
First stop was the small town of Whitton. Not much was happening here so we continued on to Darlington Point for coffee and cake at the Riverbank Café. We then walked off the calories on the Goanna Walk along the river under the red river gums and black box forest to the Bunyip Hole. We did not see or hear the bunyip. (We crossed the river twice – entering and exiting Darlington Point.)
Next stop was Griffith for a café lunch and to enjoy some of the activities of the Street Scapes festival. Griffith was designed by Walter Burley Griffin and this can be seen from the circular street pattern which we are familiar with in Canberra. We viewed the history display at the Tourist Centre and the Archibalds at the Regional Art Gallery. We then drove to the Hermit’s Cave on Scenic Hill. Valeri Ricetti lived and developed a terraced garden amongst the caves on the hill. A walk around the area shows the rock shelters, stone walls and terraced gardens that Ricetti built.
We arrived at 4pm at our campsite on the banks of Lake Wyangan. The lake was formed from the remains of a gypsum mine and a natural swamp area. There was little birdlife on the lake. A local informed us that there was a large fish kill and the wildlife was yet to recover from this event. An investigation found the cause of the event was a disturbance of sulfidic sediments by recent inflows into the lake in 2020. Blue-green algae is also an ongoing problem at the lake.
It was a quiet night except for our deer neighbours, especially the buck.
Day 5 – Monday 24 May 2021
It was a mixed start to the day. We all make our own way into Griffith, Andrew in search of a new tyre, and Mary a coffee. We can recommend the pastries from Bertoldo’s Pasticceria.
We headed south travelling through farmland, burning stubble and irrigation waterways to re-joining the Murrumbidgee River heading west along its northern bank to Hay. We lunched by the river then set up an early camp at Sandy Point. A walk along the river bank towards town filled the afternoon reading the historic information about the area and viewing the riverside sculptures. We wandered around Bushy Point and returned to camp via the painted water tank which commemorates Hay’s war heroes. Some ventured into the Hay Shearers Hall of Fame. (That meant we crossed the river twice – exiting and entering Hay.)
Brownies were baked for all to share, ending the day on a sweet note.
Day 6 – Tuesday 25 May 2021
Mary left the convoy today as she had commitments and wished to stay in town a little longer. The convoy avoided the highway and travelled on the northern road of the Murrumbidgee to Maude then joined the highway towards Balranald. Our engines had to work a bit harder in the cross winds on the open plains.
A stop at the Yanga Woolshed on the Murrumbidgee River gave us an insight into the world of the shearer. The woolshed was built in the late 1800s. The shed housed 3000 sheep and provided work for up to 40 shearers at the height of the shearing season. From here the wool was transported down the river on paddle boats to Balranald. Raindrops on the tin indicated bad weather ahead. We headed into town for a club lunch. (We crossed the river twice – entering and exiting Balranald.)
We said goodbye to the Magnificent Murrumbidgee and turned south towards the Mighty Murray passing pistachio orchards and willow plantings for the production of cricket bats. We crossed into Victoria at Tooleybuc. Swan Hill was our stop for the night.
Day 7 – Wednesday 26 May 2021
Our day began with a walk along the Swan Hill riverside path inspecting the heritage listed bridge leading into NSW. A highlight of the town was the big cod! Our plans to join a riverboat cruise were dashed as the two Swan Hill tour companies are no longer operating.
Next stop, 18km south of Swan Hill, was the Lake Boga Flying Boat Museum and home of the Catalina Flying Boat. These aircraft played an important part in the allied defence of the South Pacific during World War II. On the Lake Boga shores the Flying Boat Repair Depot and underground Communications Bunker became operational in 1942. The hanger, aircraft display and film provide a glimpse into the life at the depot.
Lunch was at Barham, back across the river in NSW. This was a friendly, pleasant and well-serviced town with two supermarkets, eateries and shopping. The convoy ventured eastward along the well-gravelled 5 Mile track through the Gunbower State Forest. Unfortunately, the River Road was too rutted and wet to use following the rain of yesterday. We stopped along the track by the river to bush camp on a very cool night. Shooters could be heard during the afternoon – it must be duck shooting season – so long walks were off the agenda. The area looked quite swampy and I am sure mozzies would eat you alive in the warmer months. Murray Valley encephalitis is a risk in the area.
It was a late night as we watched the Red Super Moon appear. Cloud meant our view was not as clear as it could have been.
News of the COVID outbreak in Melbourne meant our plans could be changed in the coming days.
Day 8 – Thursday 27 May 2021
It was a foggy start to the day. The COVID outbreak was growing so we decided to head for the border returning to NSW at Echuca with morning tea in Moama. (That meant our crossings of the Murray River only totalling 4).
Staying on the northern side of the Murray we journeyed to Mathoura and a picnic lunch at the aptly named Picnic Point. We continued east on River Trail along the banks of the Murray through red gum forest and then farmland to Tocumwal. Tocumwal was also a pleasant town and another Vic/NSW crossing point. We walked along the river bank from our campsite at Town Beach into town. We wandered through town, eating icecream, and inspecting the heritage buildings of the town, such as the flour mill, railway and old Terminus Pub. Returning into town for dinner and drinks at the local pub. Northbound traffic on the Newell Highway seemed very busy – explained by the impending COVID lockdown in Victoria.
Day 9 – Friday 28 May 2021
It was a semi-peaceful night with the sound of trucks passing through the area during the night. Corellas woke us early in the morning.
We headed north and away from the Murray to Finlay and a morning tea stop in Jerilderie, back in Murrumbidgee country. Jerilderie is where bushranger Ned Kelly attempted to have his 8,000-word manifesto printed by the local newspaper editor in 1879.
Travelling east from Jerilderie our next stop was Lockhart, locally known as the ‘verandah’ town with many heritage buildings and an impressive bank building. With its beautifully decorated water tower depicting the wildlife of the area, Lockhart is worth stopping at.
Continuing north we crossed the Sturt Highway (and the Murrumbidgee River – having crossed it a total of 11 times on our trip) returning to Coolamon and a picnic lunch in the park. The Coolamon Fire Museum, housed in the old Fire Station building, is worth a visit. Chris is friendly and most willing to share his memories and vast collection with visitors.
Continuing towards home, our next stop was Junee for a freezing night under canvas and the final day of the trip. Trains could be heard throughout the night. Junee has quite an impressive railway station and platform. No visit to Junee would be complete without a visit to the chocolate and liquorice factory.
Day 10 – Saturday 29 May 2021
In the morning, the trip was disbanded, so the de Jonghs headed home while Andrew and Matt visited the Junee Roundhouse Railway Museum and variously proceeded home later.
COVID had upset our Murray Meander but I am sure we will return to visit the Mulwala, Corowa, Yarrawonga and Rutherglen areas sometime in the future. I would recommend a food and wine tour of the region.
Thank you to Matt for sharing his knowledge of the local plants, animals and birds. Thank you to all participants for their easy going natures, especially when my navigation skills would lead them astray.
Trip report written by Ann de Jongh