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Canberra to Quorn

by the Wades

The official meeting point for the Witchelina and Beyond trip was Quorn and trip participants made their way to Quorn in various combinations and permutations.

The Wades and Wilsons left Hall together at a leisurely 9.30 am on Friday 5 July, heading for our first night’s camp at Narrandera Showground via the Licorice Factory in Junee.  We reached Narrandera mid-afternoon and Andrew Glennie joined us there later that evening.  We then travelled together to Yanga NP, where the Cheethams (friends of the Wades from the Blue Mountains) joined the group.  The following day we drove on to Paringa via a very nice coffee shop on the banks of the Murray in Mildura.

Meanwhile, Annie and Ian left Canberra late Friday after work and zoomed to Narrandera for the night before heading to Paringa to await the arrival of the Wade Wanderers on Sunday evening.  The Paringa CP is interesting; fees are $30 cash or $35 credit card, and you get a 10% discount card for use at the Paringa pub, across the road.  This led that evening to the first of several pub meals which we enjoyed together during the trip.

As we were now in South Australia and free to buy fruit and veg, the next day began at Woolies Renmark.  We then travelled via Morgan, Spalding and Crystal Brook to our next camp at Port Germein.  At Port Germein CP we found we were the only guests.  Sandy, the proprietor, was having the facilities rebuilt, and of course the builders were running late.  She honoured our booking, though, and opened up a couple of cabins to provide ‘his’ and ‘her’ facilities.  The 1.5 km long jetty attracted a fair bit of attention, including sunset and dawn photos over the Spencer Gulf.

Next day, with water tanks filled to the brim (Quorn’s water reputedly being too salty), our convoy made the short hop to Quorn.  Approaching Quorn about lunchtime, we saw the Pitchi Ritchi steam train on its run.  Little did we know that the O’Flahertys were on board.  The balance of the group, Bob and Merle Hunt and Matt Bolton, rolled into town that afternoon, Matt having travelled via the New England district and Broken Hill.

Being the official start of the LRC Witchelina trip, we all had dinner together that night in the Austral Hotel, where Matt and the Hunts were staying.  Sadly, the Austral’s catering let us down; slow service, meals not delivered together, and so-so food.  A shame for the start of a trip, but still a good night socially.

The O’Flaherty’s track to the Quorn meetup

by the O’Flahertys

Mark and Lynelle left Canberra on 29 June and had two solid days of driving to reach Rapid Bay on the Fleurieu Peninsula. The following morning we caught the ferry to Kangaroo Island and set up camp for five nights at Discovery Lagoon near Emu Bay.  We explored the island’s national parks from D’Estrees Bay and Cape Gantheaume to Flinders Chase, visited Vivonne Bay, American River, Kingscote and Shoal Bay – which boasts a fabulous beachside cliff tunnel leading to another secluded beach reachable by foot only at low tide.  We also sampled a variety of the island’s great cuisine and a few of its liquid delights, and met koalas, wallabies and kangaroos on our treks through the reserves and sanctuaries.  There’s more to see on the northern shore so we’ll definitely return – in warmer weather.  We headed back to the mainland and stopped at Rapid Bay, Port Clinton, and Port Pirie on our way north, and spent two nights at Quorn where we enjoyed a ride on the historic Pichi Richi railway before meeting the rest of the group for dinner that night.
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Quorn to Witchelina;  (Wed. 10 July)

by the O’Flahertys

9.27am – Roll Call outside the Quorn Caravan Park; eight vehicles, 14 participants.  The Wades in the lead with Matt as Tail End Charlie (TEC).

Drove north, passing the ruins at the Kanyaka Homestead historical site, sheep and emus by the roadside as well as the occasional raptor, sometimes perched and sometimes circling above the plains.

By mid-morning we had driven past Watt Sugarloaf Hill and were approaching the Ikara-Flinders Ranges national park and Wilpena Pound on the right, and a smaller complementary range to the left.

Mark and I were amazed by the majesty of the Flinders Ranges and by the large eucalypts growing in the water course of dry creek beds.  The geology offered views at times of smooth rolling hills, and at others jagged pin-striped ranges.  By 60 km south of our morning tea break at Parachilna the saw-tooth ramparts to the east were testing the limits of Lynelle’s moving vehicle photography skills.

Morning tea 11:20-11:50, Parachilna.  Most of us gave up on the long queue for barista coffee and retreated to our thermos, also taking advantage of the last decent mobile service to send a quick message or make a call.

North of Parachilna the ground becomes sandier.  Margo called back to tell us that around the oncoming bend we would see a pleated mountain, and we did.  The perfect description of a hillside rippled in crisp folds.  Shortly after we passed the remains of a massive brown coal open cut mine just north of Leigh Creek, the scar reshaping the landscape for miles and miles.

At Lyndhurst, the scheduled fuel stop presented challenges.  Perry’s Service Station sign announced low prices but the self-serve system wasn’t taking customers, so our convoy headed up to the pub where ‘Took’, a large man with a handle-bar moustache and dusty Akubra, grudgingly agreed to top up the thirsty vehicles.  It wasn’t long before more vehicles joined the queue and the teamwork of Land Rover Club members streamlined service and got us moving.  ‘Took’ kept up constant banter suggesting everyone bought a beer in exchange for his efforts.  He had been in Lyndhurst for four months after years on cattle stations, leaving with a buggered back, hips, hands and knees.  He said he’d be fine so long as he didn’t kill anyone for asking him for fuel – he had to operate the pump every time someone wanted a tank full.

Once everyone was full of fuel a re-ordered convoy drove to Farina where the wind lifted the red earth into little flurries and, being mid-afternoon, the legendary bakery had sold out of almost everything.  Only a few loaves of sour dough and sweet cakes were left to feed the group.  Margo managed to score the last custard tart, so not all was lost.  Thirty minutes later, tyres aired down, we drove the final 30 or so kilometres west to Witchelina Nature Reserve, formerly a station.  Witchelina is a shade over one million acres and is roughly 100+ km north-south and forty+ km east-west, running from Lake Torrens almost to Marree.

At Witchelina we were met by Lange and Inara Powell, the rotational managers, shown the facilities and then left to choose our campsites and settle in.  We chose to camp near the shearers’ quarters so we were close to Merle, Bob and Matt, the large common room, kitchen and the ‘necessaries.’  At 6pm we gathered on the homestead’s deck for an informative orientation presentation by Lange and Inara; along with the obligatory nibbles and drinks.  We finished the evening studying track notes for Witchelina’s several nature drives.
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Witchelina Day One  (Thu. 11 July)

by the Cheethams and Annie Parkinson

The day – a ‘rest’ day – started fine, clear and sunny but then came over with clouds and intermittent sun.  No rain.  We all agreed a quiet day was needed to catch up on domestics and ready ourselves for action for the remainder of our stay.

We had a guided tour of the site, the homestead, the woolshed and the dump… there are industrial archaeologists interested in their dump, apparently.  Lange kindly showed us the machinery shed, a tour of the station house and their energy generating battery power set up which was awesome.

For the Cheethams, the rest of the day was a lazy one – washing, mending – got the compressor working (something wrong with the hose to the back) – and typing up this log in the mess hall.  Had a long talk with Lynelle, she is doing a drawing for every day, had been for some time now.  We discussed a few topics and have similar views on many issues.  She mentioned a charity that helps homeless mothers and children – Zephyr – we should look into it.

At 4:30 Lange and Inara came to lead us off to 20 Mile Hill for the sunset.  For Annie and Ian, the highlight of Day 1 was our evening drive up to 20 Mile Hill to watch the sunset over the fabulous landscape.  This was a rough track and took some time, including a very steep, low range ascent but we all made it.  Bob and Merle had to find the right buttons and controls on their new car so it was a learning experience.

Passed an interesting feature en route – a lockspit from one of Goyder’s surveying expeditions.  This is one of the points along the base line between Termination Hill and Twenty Mile Hill.  David and Ian explained how they work – fascinating.

We arrived in time for the sunset and the view … which in all directions was Witchelina – a huge property (4,200 sq km) and the views were excellent – all the way to Termination Hill towards the other end of the property.  Cameras worked overtime – we were all keen to capture Mother Nature at her finest.  It was also the moment Merle taught some of us to use the panorama settings on our Smartphones and we took to it like ducks to water and so was borne the “Pano tour”.  Mark and Lynelle showed us how you can position someone at the start of a photo and if they run further along you can capture them at two points in time. Well, it amused us!

Sadly, as we started back in convoy Lange and Inara found they had a flat tire.  As darkness was descending they opted for a lift with Annie and Ian and were suitably impressed with the comfort of a Disco!  They left their vehicle to be collected in the morning.  The trip back in the dark made the drive a bit more challenging.  The Cheethams noted that their driving lights were not working… must look at that.

Back to camp for nibbles and then a late dinner.  This was too late for the Cheethams (self-described wimps!!!).  They had a rerun of last night’s beef curry with a salad.
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Witchelina Day Two:  Dunes and Wild Flowers  (Fri. 12 July)

by the Wades

A fine but windy morning.  We set off at 9:00am for the Dunes and Wild Flowers Drive towards the southern end of the property.  Ian and Annie led, with us as TEC.  Andrew rode with the Hunts, while Matt rode with the Wilsons.  Chrissie, from the Mitsubishi Club of SA, joined us for the day.

First stop was Bubbles Rock Gully.  Fascinating geology; lots of scenes converted to pixels.  The track was good, and indeed remained good for most of the day.  Next stop Rocky Dam, with a Blitz truck abandoned atop the dam wall.  Mornos at Pig Hill Hut; sheltering from the wind behind the vehicles.  Fantastic view across a dry lakebed to Termination Hill.

Then through some easy dunes, the O’Flahertys first exposure to dune country, to Boundary Hut, an ex-Woomera instrumentation hut.  Then through more dunes to Honeymoon Dam, where we had lunch as it was relatively sheltered.  No water, of course, but lots of bird song in the vegetation.

We then swung north, around the western side of Termination Hill, and into rocky country.  Last stop was a climb on foot up to Coronation Cairn which provided a great view along the NW fault, a dominating geological feature; then back to camp for 4pm to hang out some well-stirred washing.  Nibbles and drinks were at five, followed by tea and an early evening; in bed by 9:30, only to be interrupted by the continuing winds and the need to rescue washing from the line.
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Witchelina Day Three:  The Ridge Top Nature Drive  (Sat. 13 July)

by Matt Bolton

We woke to a cool south-westerly breeze.  After a leisurely breakfast, the convoy of six vehicles were on the road by 9:20am, with the O’Flahertys in the lead and the Wades as TEC.  After heading West towards Mulgaria Station, we turned northwards towards the property boundary.  The first landmark was the East Mount Dam, which was dug by animal-drawn scoops in 1927, for the princely sum of 1027 pounds.  The track notes exhorted us to watch for wildlife along the banks, but there was no water.  There were only the rotting carcases of kangaroos and emus.  So it was better to focus on the geology on subsequent stops.

The second stop was labelled “Stripes”, looking like airstrips.  These were from the layers of sedimentary rocks turned side-on and oriented NW-SE.  A bonus was the presence of fossil stromatolites, similar to extant ones at Hamelin Pool, WA.

The third stop, “Ramparts”, looked like medieval defences, because the soft rocks had eroded away, leaving the hard dolomite rocks.

We had morning tea at the fourth stop, where fault breccia (=broken rocks in Italian) were in several piles.  These were formed along one of three major faults also running NW-SE for approximately the length of the property.

The fifth stop was along a ridge top to view the Zig Zag Folds.  These were a spectacular series of rock layers (as before) but arranged in a series of saddles and gullies.  The 360 degree view included Tarlton Knob, Mt Nor’west Range and Willouran Ranges, which mark the northernmost extent of the Adelaide Fold Belt.

Lunch was at the so-called Utah Hut, which was built in the 1980s as a base for mineral exploration by the Utah Development Corporation.  They were mainly looking for copper, which had historically been mined in the Willouran Ranges.  The hut has been restored by the Flinders Rangers 4WD Club and provides ideal habitat for spiders.  Also on Witchelina, the University of Texas has studied the non-igneous intrusions (e.g. salt domes potentially holding oil) apparently similar to those under the Gulf of Mexico.

The seventh stop was to see Slate Pencils.  These were approximately the size of crayons and would have been useless as roof tiles!

Our last stop on the tour was Mirra Creek Dam, where the rocks had fossilised ripples.  They were so abundant that some had been used to construct a weir for watering stock in the pastoral days of Witchelina.  However, the water turned out to be too saline.

In the evening, everyone in the group participated in the silly hat evening.  Hats ranged from simple hardware to elaborate constructions from Quorn craft shops and/or the Witchelina dump.  Even our manager/hosts, Lange and Inara, entered into the spirit of the occasion.
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Witchelina Day 4– Mt Nor’West Drive  (Sun. 14 July)

by the Hunts

This was the day to undertake the Mt Nor’West Drive with a starting time around 9.00 am.  During breakfast we chatted to Chrissie who was packing up to return to Adelaide.  She had paid a deposit on a used 17’ dual axle caravan to be collected from near Wollongong in the near future.  After collecting it she will take a leisurely journey home to get used to it.  She will have more training from a fellow member of the Mitsubishi 4WD Club of SA before heading for WA.

The Wilsons led the convoy with the Wades TEC.  We set off in 6 vehicles with only Lynelle staying behind due to a bad back.  We drove past the tip in a clockwise direction following a route shared by three loop drives.  The first point of interest was the area of mulga tree stumps.  These trees were cut down to make fence posts, which in this country, can last for 100 years or more.

Conditions were very dusty and there were numerous dry washouts as we passed the Folded Rocks, quartz chips, iron-coated chips, another Fault Breccia and viewing points for Mount Nor’West.  The highlight of this track is the slow drive through the Old Mount Nor’West Gorge.  This required engaging low range, driving onto the dry creek bed and slowly moving through the gorge about one km long.  We took numerous photo stops as the gorge walls displayed all sorts of geological features.  The only water we crossed was a large puddle of evil smelling liquid.

After exiting the gorge, we drove about 1.5 kms on a dusty, twisty track to a camp ground which has a long drop toilet.  This was our morning tea stop and warm in the sun.  We continued along the route with photo stops, to the remains of the Mount Nor’West homestead and ruins.  We were all staggered at the effort the early settlers made to cart stone to these sites and shape many to construct solid buildings, which unfortunately did not last.  Chances of them being stabilised to preserve them seems remote.  Not far from the homestead a ramp made out of pipe lay abandoned.  It was constructed while a new fence was being built.  The ramp saved the motor cyclist having to open and close the gates.

The convoy returned at 12.45 pm in good time for lunch.  We had driven 33.2 kms.  After the meal it was time to start packing the vehicle.  Ian and Annie completed their packing and departed to return eastwards to work.  I emptied the two 10 litre cans of diesel brought as a reserve into the Everest tank and was pleased that the new Rotational Manager, Vic, was happy to take the cans for later use.  Showers were enjoyed in the afternoon warmth followed by pikelets made by Lynelle.  The new rotational managers, Vic and Penney attended.  They had been advised that some women who were conducting courses for Aboriginal youth would be arriving a day early and would be bringing a week’s supply of food and gear for twenty into the kitchen.  This required us to remove our food from the fridge.  Fortunately, the room next to ours was empty so we transferred our fridge and food there.

As usual Happy Hour was held in the dining room followed by a Cheetham, Hunt, Wade convoy dinner:  a Cheetham lamb stew and a Margo apple crumble.  As the fire had been lit earlier the large room was very comfortable.
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Witchelina to Hiltaba  (Mon. to Wed, 15^th to 17^th July)

by the Wilsons

We departed Witchelina, minus the O’Flahertys, the second of our group who had to return to work, and headed due west via an unsealed road that no-one in the group had travelled before, so we weren’t quite sure of its condition.  Part of it was a private road across Mulgaria Station, skirting Lake Torrens.  We had permission and understood there may be a toll, but nobody was around the homestead to collect it, so we kept going through beautiful open countryside.

The road’s condition varied from rough gibber to low sand dunes which presented the group with no problems until the Wilsons managed to become bogged on top of a dune.  The Wades’ Defender very effectively towed the Discovery (and caravan) out and we continued on.  Mention should be made of Andrew’s VW Transporter which handled the conditions with aplomb.

We had lunch beside a very salty lake (Lake Arthur), and exited the private road on the approaches to Andamooka.

We stopped at Roxby Downs for a few supplies before heading on the tar into Woomera for the night.  The Woomera Travellers’ Caravan Park was run by Commandant Hoffmeier who issued a string of orders to us on arrival re. behaving ourselves at-all-times, and the need to be neat and tidy.  Unfortunately, Andrew hadn’t been listening and had to be reprimanded for parking crookedly.  The Wades luckily escaped sanction for their naked washing hanging in full view.  This park had the foulest dump-point I’d seen anywhere.

An unexpectedly good dinner was enjoyed at the Eldo Hotel, a short walk into town.

The next morning, we explored the rocket and aircraft exhibitions, before saying goodbye to Matt.  Down to five vehicles from our initial eight.

We drove from Woomera through Glendambo (fuel and an ice-cream stop) to Kingoonya (about 170 km) where we overnighted at the friendly little caravan park right across the road from the transcontinental railway line.  Drinks at the pub and a lovely moonrise finished the day perfectly.  There was a steady flow of trains along the line; one fanatic counted seven through our brief stay, but none of the trains spotted in daylight was the Ghan or Indian-Pacific.

The next morning we drove to Hiltaba, about 190 km.  The countryside greened up as we headed south into the Gawler Ranges, and the change in greenery as we crossed the grid into Hiltaba Nature Reserve was remarkable.  Healthy spinifex with other grasses filling in the gaps, along with healthy shrubs and trees.

In to Hiltaba by 2:30pm to meet our hosts, Chris and Maria; very helpful.  Set up camp by the shearers’ quarters, where Bob and Merle had accommodation, and familiarised ourselves with the kitchen, common room and big diesel generator which powers everything.  Early drinks and nibbles (4:30pm); generator off at 9pm, so no lights in the buildings until morning.
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Hiltaba Rest Day  (Thu. 18 July)

by the Cheethams and Wades

Fun and games starting the generator this morning.  Andrew and David worked out that the unit hadn’t been charging the starter batteries so had to ask Chris to provide a small gennie to get things going.  He also returned the battery charger he’d borrowed for another task so everything would run sweetly thereafter.

Being a rest day, most of us carried out some kind of minor maintenance.  The Wilsons had a bit of a problem.  A shockie on their van had sheared off and swung back under the suspension.  Difficult to unbolt, so would need cutting off.

Around 11am we drifted off to Pretty Point, about eight km away, to do a short walk.  It was a very beautiful walk with quite a lot of wildflowers as well as the interesting rounded rock formations.  The walk afforded great views over the property and was such a contrast to the dryness of Witchelina.  There was, in fact, a bit of water in some of the gorges and in indentations on the rocks.  As a bonus there was a bit of Telstra at the top of the rise.

Back to camp to start the preps for the convoy dinner.  Lit a large fire to produce embers for the camp ovens.  Two camp ovens – one for the lamb roast (Margo) and the other for a huge pile of roasted veg (Merle).  Jan had some broccoli for colour and Margo had a gravy.  All delicious and we ate it in the dining room as the wind was up again… actually it never went away.  Merle produced a great dumpling for dessert.

A good and relaxing day.

Hiltaba, Pine Well Drive  (Fri. 19 July)

by the Wades

Started at the homestead to collect our trip notes, setting off with us in the lead and the Cheethams as Tail End Charlie.  Headed down the Iron Knob Road for some 28 km then turned right onto a station track.  Easy driving, but encroaching vegetation; needed to fold in the mirrors.  The start featured a number of wells and stone tanks, plus two dry waterfalls.  Country in great shape; loads of emus and kangaroos, and lots of wombat holes in the sandy track.   Lovely colours through the day, pink rhyolite and granites, orange sand, pale green vegetation and blue saltbush.

Back in time for Chris to turn up with an angle-grinder and remove the Wilson’s destroyed shock absorber.  Luckily the van has two each side, so they are still mobile.  Drinks and nibbles and a relaxed evening followed.  Chris warned that the wind would strengthen, and it soon started to whistle through the casuarinas where we were camped.

Hiltaba, North Wall Drive  (Sat. 20 July)

by the Wades

A relaxed start to a windy day.  Some of us set off at 7:30am to walk up the hill to the North of our camp.  The target, to take photos of the valley at sunrise.  Going up the hill provided mobile coverage; a bonus.  Back to camp for a late shower and breakfast.

Left at 10:30 to do the North Wall Drive.  Drove alongside the airstrip then arrived at some rock holes.  Came to the foot of a mesa and it was back to low range first up an awkward track; tight and rocky.  The Hunts scraped their sidesteps.  Then on to North Wall, a man-made rock dam up a gorge, and along the top of the mesa before descending back to the plains.  We then had a pretty drive past various wells and tanks and a few farm relics, including an old dray – with rope and tallow roller bearing seals still intact!!  Back to the Iron Knob Road at Pretty Point.  This led us to the Lookout Track.  Another steep, slow crawl up the mountain to magnificent views of distant hills and lakes; not to mention a sizable mob of feral goats we spotted on the way up.

An early return to camp and a relaxed evening in the shearers’ quarters.
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First Departures  (Sun. 21 July)

by the Wades

Today the remains of our group split up.  The Cheethams and Wilsons departed at 8:30am for Port Augusta, following the Iron Knob Road.

The balance of us, Andrew G, the Hunts, and the Wades, walked over to the homestead for mornos with Chris and Maria, then explored the gorge behind the homestead.  Again, a large, stone dam wall very much like the North Wall, though far larger and still retaining some water.  This is used for gardens and toilet flushing.  Back to camp for a lazy afternoon, then Chris and Maria joined us for the evening’s drinks and nibbles, with Maria providing a dried kangaroo sausage sourced from Ororoo and Margo, camp oven damper with jam and cream.

Final Departure  (Mon. 22 and Tue. 23 July)

by the Wades

On the road for 9am.  Took the Iron Knob Road for a way, then turned off at Yardea for Minnipa.  Roads are mostly very good, better than expected.  From Yardea we wound our way through the Gawler Ranges, beautiful country.  Eventually we caught up to a grader, which explained the good surface so far, and which deteriorated once we had passed the grader.

On reaching Minnipa we drove out to Tcharkuldu Rock, our intended camp spot.  However, we were there early afternoon, and the wind was howling, so at Andrew’s suggestion we all drove on to Kimba.

The Hunts booked into the Gateway Hotel, while Andrew and ourselves set up at the showground.  We walked the short distance into town to regroup for tea at the pub, our last meal together for this trip.

The following morning we all went our separate ways; Andrew to Adelaide, the Hunts to Canberra, and the Wades at our usual stately (in other words, slack) pace, towards the Clare.
[/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb content_max_width=”1100px” _builder_version=”4.0.11″]Last night together – Kimba
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